Deflected Double Weave 

​

Workshop I: Connections, Layers, & Pockets

Deflected Double Weave (DDW) is a weave structure that has been “around” for a long time—at least as far back as the Ancient Colonial Shawl draft published in Mary Meigs Atwater’s Recipe Book, 1957. It has been called many things by many weavers and whether it is truly “double weave” is still debated. Traditionally, double weave is a single cloth in which there are two weaves. One warp interlaces with one weft and another warp interlaces with a second weft.

Basically, 8 Shaft DDW is plain weave with adjacent warp and weft floats. In DDW, the threads from one weave float over the threads from the other weave in both the warp and weft. The two weaves lie flat, side by side, and the threads can slide towards each other. When the woven cloth is off the loom, the threads slide or “deflect” from their position into the float areas. This results in remarkably interesting interlacements and textures.

Since DDW is usually threaded odd-even in block sequences, DDW can be combined with traditional double weave to create layers, pockets, and connections all in the same piece. This technique may be used to weave dramatic shawls, scarves, and cowls with a variety of fibers and colorways.

2 or 3 day workshop options: Participants warp their looms ahead of time.

Level:  Intermediate and above

Looms: 8 shafts or more

​

Workshop II: Beyond Traditional Deflected Double Weave

Deflected Double Weave lends itself well to be woven as “something else”. Crimp weave, loom-controlled weft shibori, and plain weave can all be woven on DDW threadings. Plain weave and DDW can also be combined for a unique “V”-shaped shawl. With a few modifications to 8 shaft DDW, triple layers can be added to the structure. Explore the options and step beyond traditional DDW patterns.

2 or 3 day workshop options: Participants warp their looms ahead of time.

Level:  Intermediate and above            Looms: 8 shafts  

Workshop III: Workshop I and II can be combined into one workshop to include all techniques, 3 days.

 

Deflected Double Weave Seminar

 

Seminar: Deflected Double Weave and Some Interesting Variations

A 1.5 -2 hour presentation is available for a meeting only format. This is a PowerPoint presentation on the weave structure and includes many samples to view that are woven on 4-16 shafts.

 

 

 

Sakiori

 

Workshop: Sakiori

               Saku  “To tear or rip”

               Oru    “To weave”

Sakiori clothing was first woven in about 1750 in Japan from recycled indigo dyed cotton rags usually on a bast fiber warp. This form of Japanese rag weaving continued up until about 40-100 years ago. It differs from traditional rag weaving in that all of the recycled rag is used in the process…. the cloth and the loose threads from the warp or weft. Nothing is wasted.

Contemporary variations for rag weaving using recycled kimono, sari silk, silk ties, or cloth include structures such as canvas weave, crackle, honeycomb, and double bind. Weave structures that allow the recycled weft material to be seen on the surface yet also have integrity within the finished cloth are preferred. Experiment and enjoy the feel of these old materials that can be transformed into contemporary cloth for today’s use.

2 or 3 day workshop options: Participants warp their looms ahead of time.

Level: All

Loom: 4 or 8 shaft

​

Seminar: Sakiori

A 1.5 -2 hour presentation is available for a meeting only format. This is a PowerPoint presentation on the weave structure and includes many samples to view that are woven on 4-8 shafts.

 

Finishing and Embellishment

Workshop: Finishing and Embellishment Techniques for Handwovens

Enhance your handwovens with a variety of finishing and embellishment techniques.

There are important decisions to make about how your handwoven piece will be finished even before you start weaving. Several ideas for hems, hemstitching, fringes and how to plan for them will be covered. Wet finishing for different types of fibers will also be discussed.

In the hands-on session, learn to add a personal touch to your piece with a beaded edge, beaded twisted fringe, embroidery or beading directly onto the fabric.  Fabric, beads, beading and embroidery thread, needles and instructions will be provided. Participants are welcome to bring in their own handwovens to discuss embellishment ideas for them. Participants will put together a reference booklet with the techniques covered.

Level: All

Loom: Not required.

1-2 day workshop options

​

Seminar: Finishing and Embellishment Techniques for Handwovens

A 1.5 -2 hour presentation is available for a meeting only format. This is a PowerPoint presentation on the weave structure and includes many samples to view that are woven on 4-16 shafts. In person or by zoom.